January 30, 2024

We interrupt your regularly scheduled Tuesday, for some important news. Arrived yesterday from Italy, from the master himself, Alessandro Bettarini. On his recovery, when he felt strong enough, he got back to his bench and completed this masterpiece. I present to you the @officialerrei Teseo Tesei! A bronze masterpiece! My new watch alert 🚨 ‼️ 🔔

For those of you who are not familiar with Ennebi’s other company allow me to give you some insight. In 2014, Fratelli Bettarini s.r.l. was born out of the desire of Diletta (from London, UK), Gherardo (from Barcelona, Spain) and Lapo (from Brussels, Belgium), the “Bettarini brothers (and sister)” to carry on the project of their father, Alessandro, co-founder of Ennebi and master watchmaker.

The company R&I – Relojes e Instrumentos is born from a very simple idea: to create and supply to a public of experts, professionals, collectors or simply enthusiasts, mechanical precision watches of the highest quality created, with an innovative design and extreme solutions, designed and handmade, offering the possibility of customising them to meet the needs of our customers. These features make our products unique, tailor-made.

Here are some of the specs:

ECHNICAL SHEET
Mechanic, manual winding, ø 37,2 mm Hours : minutes : small seconds at 9 o’clock 46 hours, 18000 beats/hours. 17 rubies
Case: B14 bronze, patinated (47 mm)
Case back: Grade 5 titanium, secured to the case by 6 DIN 912 screws
Watertightness guaranteed by o-rings
24 mm lugs
Pressure-resistant and waterproof to 300 m
Crown: B14 bronze, patinated finish, with 18 Kt gold medal Push/Pull Crown: Watertightness secured by 2 o-rings
Crystal: Flat, convex, sapphire (4.1 mm)
Dial diameter: 36,5 mm, luminescent minute markers and numerals

February 6th, 2024

The TESEO watch, built by R&l, with “1960” engraved on the dial is made of bronze; it has a hand-wound mechanical movement, has a low magnetic marking and is watertight to a depth of 300 meters. Its name refers to the year of establishment of the “Teseo Tesei” Diving and Incursion Grouping Command, better known as COMSUBIN. This watch is intended as a tribute to the Italian Navy unit that guards the exploits and continues the tradition and activities of the incursors who distinguished themselves for valor and courage during World War II.”

The bronze case is what is striking to me right out of the gate. The aged dark bronze is so deep and rich! It’s hard not to drool over it. I took a long time just admiring that detail when I first handled this watch. The case design and shape is just classic Bettarini at its finest. I love that Panerai still used his designs long after the company left him and many others behind after they moved out of Italy to become a Swiss brand more or less. The Bettarini case is such a lovely work of horological art and instantly recognizable to those who know. The shape, the lines, are like admiring the curves of a classic car. There is a reason why such designs are classics.

The lugs are perfection in my opinion. The shape, the curves are fantastic both aesthetically and functionally but R&I took the function a step further with the drilled holes & solid screw bars. This is craftsmanship at its finest. No cutting corners, no cheap spring bars…..this is one of many reasons why I will always go to brands like this and not the big name brands. One of my last experiences with Panerai was the watch had a snap on caseback and spring bars. Seriously?!? Going to charge those kind of prices for details that are on watches that you can buy at a kiosk at the local mall?!? I am not bashing Panerai but come on, that’s a bit lame to cut corners that way.

February 13th, 2024

This bronze beauty is a work of Bettarini art. The case design and shape gives that away but also the crown design. @officialerrei @officialennebi do crowns like no other. Their crown designs are pure works of art. Fun fact: 99% of their crowns are push/pull, but don’t worry, most are rated 1,000 meters of water resistance. This particular model is 300 meters. Ennebi’s patinated B14 bronze is so incredibly beautiful straight out of box. The case and the crown are made out of B14 bronze and the crown also contains B14 bronze, 18 Kt gold medal with the @officialerrei logo.

The fixed bezel is engraved with “Comando Raggruppamento Subacquei e Incursori Teseo Tesei” which is the Italian Navy’s special operations unit, Teseo Tesei was an Italian naval officer who invented the Maiale, aka the human torpedo. The Italian frogman group are named after him. I won’t go too far into the history lesson, but if you’re interested in reading more about this group or Teseo himself, there is plenty of information via google. I love the way the fixed bezel looks with the engraving’s encirclement of the dial. I was thinking to myself that the letters would look incredibly cool with some green patina lying inside each of the engraved letters.

The caseback is made of grade 5 titanium, and is secured to the case by 6 DIN 912 screws……in other words this caseback isn’t going anywhere. The case is finished off with the 4.1mm thick sapphire crystal, which offers a great window to the dial itself. But you will have to wait until next week for me to start talking more in-depth about this dial.

February 20th, 2024

A rare meeting in the wild between a watch crown and a moss sporophyte! I can’t believe I caught it on camera! What a glorious Tuesday indeed! The @officialerrei Teseo Tesei Tuesday is in full effect, or as I like to call it T3. I am so fascinated by this bronze case and by this glorious crown. I’ve never experienced a bronze case that was this deep & rich in such earthy brown tones. It creates such a warmth to this watch. Bronze has become one of my favorite case materials. I just love how it wears the ASA it acquires on my adventures. The scratches and dents add to the overall appeal of bronze. In my opinion, it ages the best out of all other case materials.

This is my second bronze watch from @officialerrei , my other is the Carlson Icon that I recently reviewed. It is not surprise to me that the case on this Teseo Tesei is so stunning and beautiful since it comes from the house of the Bettarini family. It is no surprise that this crown is so beautifully designed and constructed either. It adds such an aesthetically pleasing visual element to this case. My eyes are constantly being drawn to it. Like I mentioned before, the crown functions as beautifully as it is designed. You all know how I love the merging of aesthetics with function!

There is absolutely nothing more satisfying to me than using a magnificent crown to wind a manual-winding watch movement, especially the Unitas 6497. Such a robust movement that has stood the test of time. I would choose this movement over any in-house movement. Every day, every time, the Unitas would be my pick. I just love this movement. I love that it’s been trialed and tested and proven to be reliable again & again & again. Winding it up is an absolute pleasure but listening to its extremely audible ticking is a pure horological symphony!

February 27th, 2024

This watch definitely makes me feel better with its deep chocolate bronze case. 47mm of some of the finest Italian watchmaking I’ve ever experienced. Raw yet refined!

It’s been a while since I did one of my PSA 🚨Over the weekend I encountered some “fun” individuals in the watch groups on Facebook. It made me realize that the “pussification” of the watch community has taken a deeper hold than I previously thought. I am so tired of closed minded dipshits who try to dictate what the community should or shouldn’t be doing. There’s a time for comments and there’s a time to shut the fuck up. This notion has been sadly lost on a large majority of miserable people.

Sorry, I know some of you will tell me “oh just ignore it” sorry friends, but sweeping shit under the rug/ignoring the problem doesn’t make it go away. That’s why we have so much whining over case size, that’s why we have so much negativity……….in this day and age where everyone is an expert, everyone is a brand owner, everyone is a “reviewer”, where there are options for every possible taste…..we don’t need dictatorship in this hobby.

Somewhere, at some point, people came to think that just because something is posted on social media that it warrants a negative opinion. I put it this way, if you saw a random stranger out in public, would you go up to them and tell them “your watch is ugly” or “that car you are driving is a piece of shit”….nope you wouldn’t, so why is it considered acceptable on social media. I for one will always speak against this kind of negative bullshit. Will it make a difference?Probably not, but it’s definitely one less piece of negativity swept blindy under the rug. If you just say “oh ignore it, get over it” you are just as much to blame as the people spewing the negativity.

March 20th, 2024

Winding up the 6497 movement via this crown is nothing but the purest form of watch-porn there is. Each click is music to my ears. I know by the look/design of this crown, you understand how easily it can be gripped and used. Ennebi’s crowns are some of the best in the business. The Italian mastery of the watchmaking craft is so apparent by the way this crown looks and also by how it functions.

I wanted to highlight so much of this crown and its crown guards. I can’t express how special the watch making is on this piece. I am not a person who cares about brand history. I think too many companies rely on it and it just comes across as smoke and mirrors bullshit. I do care about people from watch making history and Alessandro Bettarini is one of the last living legends from a watch making era that is history. A brand is just a name, but when an actual person with such watch making history, makes your watch. Holy shit!!!! It’s a magical and mind blowing experience.

Then, then, then, you hold that watch in your hand and see what a master Bettarini truly is. His style, his influence is often imitated but never, ever replicated. It’s an unbelievable feeling to hold a piece of horological art, horological history in your hand, from the master himself, the OG master of Italian tool watches. It’s an experience like no other. The details, just the details alone on this crown. Each detail is like its own unique galaxy full of so much beauty that it’s near impossible for my brain and eyes to take in at once. It takes time, a lot of time to study a watch and understand all of its beautiful details.

March 26th, 2024

The 47mm bronze beauty of a beast from @officialerrei , the sister brand of Ennebi. A watch that not only encompasses the world of Italian watchmaking but is so full of those executed details throughout. The crown is definitely a highlight of those details and is the case itself, the shape, design and patina. The case is a work of beauty but how about this dial?!? Matte black dial that not only has its own patina but also has some of my favorite style makers.

The classic 12, 3, 6 and 9 is my personal favorite hour marker layout for a watch. I find it aesthetically pleasing, functionally pleasing and the balance of it all is definitely pleasing. I really appreciate that @officialerrei left the 9H in place and didn’t remove it as sacrifice to the small seconds subdial. An excellent design decision in my opinion.

The sausage style numerals on this dial are so incredibly beautiful and a nice nod to the old Italian dials of yesteryear. Sandwich dials are great and all, but this style of dial is where it’s at for me. Those of you who know will definitely understand how beautiful sausage style numerals are in person.

I had a few people make some sarcastic Panerai comments about this watch. Obviously those people are clueless on a multitude of levels but to state it as clearly as I can, this watch has more OG Panerai DNA than any Panerai that has been produced by the brand since moving its manufacturing to Switzerland in 2002. Bettarini’s history with Panerai dates back almost 45 years ago and his experience dates back almost 65 years ago when he started working in his father’s workshop. Amazing history in my opinion and that history is apparent in this watch.

I love that the text was kept to the simple engraved 1960. Nothing more is needed in my opinion. This is an excellent example of where less is more. The matte black hands that are lumed fill are a perfect choice for this watch. They are proportional to the dial which is very important to me both from an aesthetic standpoint and a functional standpoint as well. The small red second hand is just enough color to add a beautiful touch of color detail to this dial.

April 2nd, 2024

I love the subtle patina that this dial has and knowing that as this watch ages, that patina will become more pronounced. I know I talked about this the last time but I just love the sausage style markers on this watch. I mean, just look at that 6! It’s absolutely beautiful in my opinion.

This is my second @officialerrei watch and I have to say and I am completely impressed. The Carlson Icon from @officialerrei is a badass beast in its own unique way and this Teseo Tesei is too in its own unique way as well. This watch takes the edge though. Can you guess why?!? It’s the movement inside. The Unitas 6497 is my absolute favorite movement. I love when it is quiet enough that I can hear this watch’s heart beating away inside this case. That my friends is pure music to my ears. Using this crown makes winding this beast pure horological magic.

This watch has made it onto my wrist just about everyday since its arrival. I have to say that it wears like an absolute dream. It’s comfortable no matter what environment I am wearing it in. Rain, snow, sand, cold, at work, hiking……..I love how it wears. The 47mm case has excellent wrist presence on my 7 1/4” wrist.

There is a certain magic when it comes to Italian watchmaking and that magic is found throughout this watch. I can say that the brand birthed by Master Bettarini and his children, has the same quality, same lure, same endearing magic as Ennebi. Anyone who was wondering about that, you can rest assured knowing that it’s a fantastic brand that is just as endearing as Ennebi but with their own identity.

April 9th, 2024

The short lugs allow this 47mm beauty to wear well on most wrists despite the size of the wrist. It’s definitely a watch that a lot of people can pull off, if the wrist is on the larger side or smaller side. The drilled lugs with the solid screw in bars add a welcome bit of extra strength and security. A sign of a true tool watch. I’m sorry to say, but a true tool watch doesn’t have spring bars.

This watch is an absolute pleasure to wind via this beautifully designed crown. Two piece crowns are so underrated and underused in watch designs these days. The contrast between the two materials used for this crown add some nice depth of detail to the profile of this watch.

This warm and beautiful case is the perfect road to getting this dial and like the case, this dial is so warm & inviting. Laying down the ground work is the matte black dial perfect for laying down these lovely sausage style numerals and baton markers. Bettarini being the master that he is, fitted these hands to this watch. Matte black bordered hands, filled with cream colored lume that brilliantly match the numerals. The small seconds sub dial and the engraved 1960 finish off this dial so well.

April 16th, 2024

This bronze beauty has been monopolizing my wrist since its arrival. Somehow it manages to make it on my wrist at some point every day. I am quite ok with that though because the watch wears like a dream.

Being somewhat of an “artist”, a very amateur one at that, I am always fascinated with logos. I asked @officialerrei what their logo meant. Here is the answer and you are hearing this here first:

“R&I follows the line, the idea of Ennebi’s project to create a brand of watches that are more than just timepieces, they are the result of passion and the work of hands.

When we started the company Fratelli Bettarini, whose watch sector is R&I, we were thinking about the logo. My brother’s wife, decided to incorporate the crescent moon into the watch design: the crescent moon is a symbol of hope and new beginnings. At the same time, hope can be represented by a smile.

So the brand name is “Relojes e Instrumentos” (R&I) : the logo represents a stylized “r” and “i,” but at the same time the logo represents a crescent moon in the sky, a symbol of new beginning, growth, and potential, and a smiling face representing optimism, joy, and hope. Together, these two symbols create a positive and uplifting message.”

I absolutely appreciate the meaning behind this logo! I also see a sporophyte in this logo too, which of course drew my interest in. I love when logos, details and designs have meaning, just as I love when a watch has details that are functional. I am not a fan of faux details. Like faux screws on a watch case or fixed bezel. If the details are not serving a functional purpose then I don’t want them there at all.

April 23rd, 2024

Sometimes an OEM strap is just so damn good that it’s almost a sin to swap it out! This is exactly the case with this @officialerrei Teseo Tesei. Italian leather mastery at its finest. The quality of the leather is excellent. Like custom strap maker quality. The stitching is precision! A strap like this adds so much more depth of detail to a watch and that is certainly the case here! This is a testament to the house of Bettarini’s commitment to a complete package. Applying that mastery to every single detail right down to the strap and the roller buckle. The bronze roller buckle is a beautiful way to finish off this watch. It is machined with skill throughout, including the ‘R&I.’

Now @officialerrei is the sister company of @officialennebi but don’t expect this watch to be anything less than what you would get from Ennebi! The same level of craftsmanship, quality and precision is evident throughout the Teseo Tesei as I have found in the Ennebi Fondale, Seimila Metri and other models I own/have owned! That is one of reasons why I appreciate the watches that come out of the house of Bettarini. They are carefully crafted watches that are done in very limited quantities. It’s all about quality over quantity! That’s my happy place.

I love knowing when I order a watch from Ennebi or R&I, that it is being made for me. I even have say in what dial I want, what handset I want and can even decide what I want on the caseback. I owned watches from mass produced companies and there is nothing personal about a watch that millions of others own. Never found pleasure in being just another number amongst the many.

This watch is such an excellent example of what the house of Bettarini is capable of. That preserving of the old ways, the old world of watchmaking that is a dying art in this modern world of massed production feed for the materialistic cattle. Who eat from the trough just because the trough is so recognizable and safe. There’s nothing wrong with eating the same feed day after day after day, but for me I like my plate to be full of delicious hand made cuisine.

May 7th, 2024

As I wrap up this review of the bronze beauty of a beast, I wanted to reflect upon the details that really stood out for me on this watch. The Unitas 6497 movement was definitely one of the major drawing points to this watch for me. It’s my favorite movement out there. It’s an undeniably magical experience when you hand wind this watch via the oversized crown. The crown itself adds to the magic of this experience. Listening to the sound of winding and listening to the sound of the movement ticking away is pure horological music to my ears. One of my favorite things to do to relax after a long day is to lie in bed and listen to the ticking of the movement before I drift off into a deep sleep.

The bronze Bettarini case is another standout detail for me on this watch. I was truly blown away by the bronze and the patina on this watch. The patina really stood out. It’s incredible deep and adds a beautiful warmth to this watch. Some people will be frightened by the sound of 47mm but this watch is a great example don’t let dimensions scare you. The short lugs allow this watch to wear much smaller than the dimensions suggest.

Lastly, the dial. It’s a fantastic dial with some nice patina on it. If you look at one of Ennebi’s last post on the gram, it’s the one with the Seimila Metri watches on the bench. If you look in the top corner you will see this dial sitting there on Master Bettarini’s workbench. The sausage style markers and numerals are lovely examples of old school style dials. Speaking of examples, the hands are an excellent example of how amazing perfectly proportional hands look.

@officialerrei did a wonderful job on this watch. They are doing their part to keep a dying art alive. There’s not many of the masters left and it’s wonderful that Master Bettarini is still at it, doing his part to keep the old ways prevalent in a modern world.

May 14th, 2024

There are so many lovely details on this watch. This watch is one of those watches that just grows and grows on you the more time that you spend with it. It’s a different type of patina that forms here. It’s the kind of patina that forms internally. The kind that gives you a deeper appreciation. An appreciation that grows and forms just like the patina on the case of this watch.

That’s the kind of patina that has formed within me over my entire collection. I don’t have a ton of watches. I don’t have the most expensive watches and I certainly don’t have watches that are the most popular. What I do have is a collection of watches that are incredibly special to me. A collection that my love and appreciation grows every day just like patina.

Speaking of bronze and patina, for those of you who don’t know, this case is B14 bronze. The B14 alloy is known for being a very hard and a very tough bronze with an excellent resistance to corrosion. It’s a great choice for a watch case because how well it can take and relatively withstand impacts, wear, abrasion, and high temperature; resistant to high hydraulic pressures, good anti-friction quality and finally B14 has good resistance to cavitation and corrosion by seawater. Information from Broncesval.